First of all, a foreword that none of this is the "right way" to do anything - it's just how I, myself do it, and i've found a few tips that've helped me a lot, and some may help you too, particularly people who have problems with hand strain (and sometimes eyestrain) too.

If you're here for the advice and tips, please refer To my advice Page! Otherwise, if you want the "cheat sheets" (easy tips to handle things such as body parts, certain shapes, etc, go here!

*NOTE: I'm using Medibang here (and it's my main program to use, despite me having many others at my call and whim). It has an reference image panel, and it comes in very handy for referencing clothes, or designs, especially since I can use my muscle memory to draw poses.

However, this is important because, unfortunately, a lot of the things in it are functions I use a lot - and sometimes, they're either called something completely different depending on program, or just not there at all. Your mileage may Vary.

The stabilizer (sometimes called line correction) helps a lot. Higher values mean it's less shaky, and much smoother, but may feel slower; lower means more shaky, but feels faster. It's usually a matter of finding an balance of what feels good to you to use. I change it up slightly from time to time, especially from program to program.

However, the values of "higher = more slowness but smoother" and "lower = shakier but faster" are consistent across programs, so that's nice.

If you're wondering if it's cheap to use an stabilizer: nope. It's not, not at all.

Here's a nice trick using the paint bucket tool I've found that I love....

First, make an new layer under the lineart and fill it all (with layer mode; not canvas. Canvas samples the entire canvas from where you painted at (so it pays attention to lines. Some programs don't have this customizationabiltiy or even just this canvas versus layer ability.)

Here, you then swap it to a different brush mode shown in the above picture; you select the transparent box (to set your brush - and bucket - to transparent, on the layer, to canvas sampling).

Then you erase the big spots where they shouldn't be. There'll probably be white spots, but look at that! Most of it's filled in and you can now go on to the next few steps nicely and easily.

This one varies tprogram to program, and it's a function I've seen not be used in some programs too.

Basically, what it does, is lock the layer you're on to the layer below it. It's mostly useful for keeping colors from going out of the lineart if you get the very bottomost layer as you want it.

For example, here it is without clipping (the black is what you want to look at:

And here it is with clipping:

You can see here that I set up an blue layer (as the base layer) under it all to serve as the base for every other color above, and how I use clipping layers like this to ensure colors don't go out of the way (though it's also fairly easy to use an paint bucket to clean it out.)

Lock (Transparent Pixel) can be very useful for doing special markings and whatnot, or keeping a certain color shaded on its own layer.

In Medibang, it's a layer checkbox called "Lock," and what it does is that it locks the color on the layer itself so you can't draw outside of it,but it's different from "clipping"/"lock to layer below". This is mostly useful for doing blending shading with colors on the same layer, without effecting other colors on other layers.

So say you want to keep, say, a purple and a yellow separate, but sitll shade them, but not have them mix over each other; this helps with that. I use this frequently when working on rather complex drawings or drawings that I'm going to shade in some way or other.

AS an example: It's more useful than Clipping layers is, for things like markings (like tiger markings; these can be rather complex if you're going with the not-just-Tigger stripes) or shading (particularly blended shading with a soft brush).

There are no examples for this one because it's a lot harder to explain, so it's easier to just find your function in your program and try it.

Colored lines can really add a bunch of life to drawings, especially ones with " effects" or a lot of stuff going on, particularly when it's an soft picture.

You can see this in action here:

This is regular black lineart.

This is regular colored lineart (manually locked and colored with colors).

This is gradient colored lineart (locked and then with an gradient slapped over it to make it colored gradient lineart). I wasn't very careful about the colors I used; I just wanted to show it; but if you go with colors depending on your "theme" (dark? light? etc.) it can look superb; I do this sort of thing in a lot of my "effects" practicing pictures.

Just draw an picture as normal, colors and lineart and all (this works best with flat-colored pictures).

Here one is here. And now...

lock the layer the lineart is on, and color it to what's around it (using other colors already present in the picture for details inside the lines, or to define edges).

And presto! Cheap lineless!

All written content and art on this site belongs to Princessnapped, unless stated otherwise.
Please do not repost or edit my content without permission from me (Contact me for this).
All properties are © their own creators (which include but are not limited to Game Freak, the Pokemon Company, Nintendo, Sega, etc).
This website is fan-made, and not affiliated with any of the aforementioned companies.